The Quick and Dirty CR Data Roundup
Some stats from the trip: 70 full days in Costa Rica 60 surf days 25 sunsets watched from out in the water (approximate) 11 bars of surf wax used 1 time I was hit by another surfer 2 broken fins 5 days where I did not go in the ocean, mostly due to buses 922 …
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On Surfing as a Metaphor for Life
In thirty minutes of being in the water today, I was washed back in towards shore six or seven times, without a single attempt at riding a wave. The wind was onshore, and the swell was choppy and relentless. No matter how hard I paddled, I couldn’t make any progress, and I just felt my …
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