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The surface was a mere two inches above my head and my world was panic. Every exhalation sent a rapid stream of bubbles upwards to throttle my eardrums and every sucking gasp inwards pulled in stale dry air that made my throat want to close up. Safety was so close and nearly every part of …

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After a month away, I was surprised to see the face of Hat Ton Sai had changed significantly. Two new restaurants had sprung up where there had previously been only wreckage, travelers were beginning to return, a brand new concrete and glass tourist information booth was finished being rebuilt, and a host of new lights …

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